Advanced Bra Size Measurement Guide
Inspired by ABraThatFits.org — Improved with More Precision
About This Calculator
This bra size calculator is inspired by the widely trusted ABraThatFits methodology, but improves upon it with additional measurements that help overcome common pitfalls and inaccuracies. By including factors like breast root width, firmness, and projection, we aim to provide a more tailored fit recommendation.
The calculator also analyzes your breast structure — if you're not satisfied with the initial result, you can manually select your structure type and the calculator will recalculate your bra size based on that structure.
What Influences Your Fit
- Firmness: Softer tissue may spread more, affecting cup size needs.
- Root Width: Determines if you need narrow or wide underwires.
- Projection: Affects how far the breast extends from the chest wall, crucial for cup depth.
Why These Measurements Matter
Projection: Determines cup depth. Higher projection means more forward depth, so you need a cup with greater front volume to avoid wrinkling or gaping.
Root Width: Guides underwire width. A wider root requires wider wires to encircle all tissue comfortably, while a narrower root benefits from slimmer wires to prevent shifting.
Firmness: Affects band tension choice. Softer tissue deforms more under the band and straps, so a firmer band may be needed for support, whereas firmer tissue can often be supported with a standard band tension.
1. Underbust Measurements
Loose Underbust
Measure around your ribcage while keeping the tape comfortably relaxed.
This gives an idea of your natural resting measurement and is useful for understanding how much give you might want in a band.
Snug Underbust
Pull the tape tighter but still comfortable.
This measurement helps gauge what size will stay in place throughout the day without feeling restrictive.
Tight Underbust
Pull the tape as tight as you can tolerate.
This represents the minimum your ribcage can compress and helps inform the lower end of your potential band size range.
2. Bust Measurements
Standing Bust
Measure the fullest part of your bust while standing upright.
This reflects your natural breast volume with minimal gravity influence.
Leaning Bust
Bend forward 90° and measure the fullest point.
This allows breast tissue to fall forward fully, capturing total volume including side tissue that might not be noticeable when standing.
Lying Bust
Lie flat on your back and measure again at the fullest point.
This shows how your breast tissue behaves when supported by the chest wall, offering insight into firmness and projection.
Structural Analysis
Based on the above inputs, our advanced tool estimates your breast structure to provide the most accurate size. If the result feels off, you can adjust the structure manually — the calculator will then refine your recommended size accordingly.
Bra Size and Shape Parameters
Bra size isn't just “under-bust + cup volume,” it's about matching the bra's frame (band, wires, cups) to three key shape parameters:
1. Projection (Depth)
What it is: How far your breasts stick out from your chest wall (leaning vs. lying measurement) .
Impact on cup volume and shape:
• High projection (“projected”): Breasts have more forward depth for a given volume ⇒ need deeper cups with a taller “apex” (the point of fullest projection). If you choose a shallow-cup bra, you'll get wrinkles at the cup apex and tightness at the front of the bra.
• Low projection (“shallow”): Breasts are flatter ⇒ the same volume is spread more across the width of the cup. A deeply cut cup will gape at the top.
Sizing implication: You may end up one cup size larger or smaller in a given band depending on projection. Many brands grade (scale) their cups differently: a size “32C” in a projected cut will be deeper than a “32C” in a shallow cut .
2. Root Width (Wire Width)
What it is: The horizontal span of your breast tissue base (standing vs. snug measurement).
Impact on underwire fit:
• Wide root: Needs a wider underwire to encircle all tissue; a wire that's too narrow will sit on breast tissue and cause discomfort or damage.
• Narrow root: Needs a narrower wire; if you use the “standard” width for your band/cup, the wire might be too wide, causing the cup to shift and lack support.
Sizing implication: Some brands offer “narrow,” “average,” and “wide” wires in the same cup volume. You may need to size down in band/cup on a narrow-wiring line, or size up/in a wide-wiring line to hit your perfect frame.
3. Firmness (Tissue Elasticity)
What it is: How much your breast tissue yields under compression (loose vs. tight measurement). Soft tissue deforms more.
Impact on support and band choice:
• Soft breasts: Benefit from a firmer, more compressive band and bras with sturdier underwires and stronger strap tension to counteract tissue “give.”
• Firm breasts: Can be adequately supported by a more moderate band tension; too-stiff a band may feel uncomfortably tight.
Sizing implication: You might choose a snugger band (e.g., 32 instead of 34) or look for bras with higher-stretch resistance (e.g., firmer elastics, reinforced seams) if you infer “soft” tissue. Conversely, “firm” tissue wearers sometimes prefer a slightly looser band for comfort.
Putting it all together
Band size is still tied to the snug/under-bust measurement, but tissue firmness can push you up or down one notch for optimal support and comfort.
Cup size (volume) comes from standing vs. snug difference, but projection shifts how that volume is shaped front-to-back versus side-to-side.
Wire width must match your root width, which often means mixing-and-matching: e.g., a 34D in a narrow-wired line or a 32D in a wide-wired line may actually cup the same breast volume.
In practice, many fitters will recommend starting with your under-bust band, then evaluating cup fit in the mirror: gaping indicates too much projection for the cup or too-wide wire; spillage indicates not enough projection or wire that's too narrow; strap dig or band roll indicates firmness/softness issues. By adjusting projection (cup depth), root width (wire width), and band tension (firmness), you converge on the “true” bra size that fits all three dimensions of your breast shape.